In this case, a single setup for all rabbets is much better than taking multiple passes to creep up on the width.Ĭarefully measure the width and depth using scrap wood and NOT your panel. While it is possible to use a smaller diameter bit and a smaller stack of blades than the final width, I would suggest you use the correct tools for the job - do it once and do it right. the second option is using a router with an edge guide and a bit the same diameter as the thickness of the material you are using.For example, if you are using 3/4" material, you will require a 3/4" diameter bit to properly make a slot that will accept the material width. These joints can be made using a table saw and a dado blade either as a stack blade set or as a wobble blade. This instructable is not intended as a complete wood working or speaker enclosure design, rather I wrote it to provide a few tips so that your next project may also go together better. Oh sure, you can shove glue or caulking to 'seal' the enclosure but why not design the box properly to begin with? Secondly, screws are not cosmetically appealing and many times need to be filled before final surface preparation - so again, time spent on design of a proper enclosure will result in a rewarding and stable end product.
The problem is a butt joint is not strong or easily squared properly and may not properly seal. I've made a lot of enclosures as a hobby and admittedly, butt joints and screws were used often and this is very typical for speaker enclosures.
#Speaker enclosure design wall driver#
In fact, the time spent to properly design a stable enclosure is as important as the calculations and speaker driver selection.
The material is flat, stable, and dense - great for sound reinforcement.
When making a wood speaker enclosure, MDF is a great choice. There are many wood joints available although some work better than others depending on the desired function.